Marvellous Malaga

4 04 2016

It’s been about 3 months since we got home from Spain, but I had to immediately jump back into grad school, student teaching, and all that goes along with both of those. Now I`m on Spring Break so I have time to catch up on our adventure!!

After a rather epic couple of days in Ronda, I was sad to move on. I wanted more time – time to poke around the ruins, time to explore the hills, time to permanently etch this little white village in my brain forever. Instead, I got a picture of us in the daylight on the bridge in “our spot” and was back in the car headed southeast.

This drive was different. We almost immediately climbed into the mountains and started winding around the dizzying curves. Felt more like home! Instead of towns and orchards out my window, I saw mostly bare rock and short scrubby trees.

Finally, before I succumbed entirely to car sickness, I noticed a change in the houses and buildings starting to pop up: they were massive! Big estates and haciendas. Then I found the reason on the horizon: my first glimpse of the Mediterranean Sea!! Malaga is more of a resort town, filling to the brim in summertime.

Thankfully, it’s not summertime and we had little traffic to fight. We ditched the car and headed to our next apartment. Malaga is a lot bigger than I thought! I also realized from  the cab driver that I’ve been mispronouncing the name all along. I had been drawing out the middle ‘a’ like Ma-laaaaaahhhhh-ga, when the accent is actually on the first ‘a’ like MAL-aguh. Anyway, I was glad to fix that right up. Welcome to MALAGA!

We had a bit to wait before we could get into our place so we grabbed a sidewalk table at a cafe down the street. The air in the alley that housed the door to our apartment was heavy with the aroma of urine, and I was stoked we didn’t have to hang out there. Before long, we were settled in and back on the streets. What shall we find today?!

We wandered the maze of streets through narrow alleys and wide, main, thoroughs. Activity bustled everywhere under the Christmas lights strung building to building across the streets. We crossed a couple plazas and found the mega huge Cathedral. Hard to miss, really, with the steeple piercing the clouds and the bells tolling every hour. We poked around the outside and wandered off….but soon returned. The beautiful plaza housed cafés and restaurants, and we were in the mood for paella.

Nestled into a table under the tent of the restaurant, I gazed at the monument built for worship, stuffed my face with incredible food, and fell under the romantic spell of the street musicians. I liked this place.

We took an afternoon siesta then explored more of the city. A gelato shop right around the corner from our apartment earned J’s business and stamp of approval. We ventured back to the cathedral to tour the inside, which completely took my breath. Boy the Catholics love to display their wealth. The alters and enclaves and tombs and paintings and sculptures – OH MY!

Back outside, we meandered the wide pedestrian lanes. Here, they were full of trinket vendors, almond carts, performers, musicians. The lights overhead lit the night sky, but the crowds pressed in from every side. We finally pushed through to the park by the harbor and to the cool walkway along the water. The sun was setting behind the big Ferris wheel and splashed colors across the horizon. The Mediterranean reflected the color and made quite a scene.

Mediterranean at Malaga Spain

I touched it!

We strolled down the lane and browsed the artisan market. We reached the beach and I touched the Mediterranean Sea. I collected a few shells and we drifted on. Back in the main pedestrian lane, we both got super irritated with the ridiculous crowds and ducked into a pizza stall to catch our breath. Munching on giant slices of pizza definitely made me feel better, and we took a zig-zag of back alleys back to our apartment.

The next morning, we prepared for our day’s grand adventure. Malaga is very strategically situated on the Mediterranean and was thus a desirable stronghold for whoever held the city. The impressive and nearly impenetrable fortress, alcazaba, and wall are still watching over the city. Off we went to explore! The Spanish built on top of the Moors, who built on top of the Romans, so there are ruins on top of older ruins on top of ancient ruins. We started at the bottom, wandering an ancient Roman theater. I could scarcely breathe I was so taken with the history. The whispers of the past were almost overwhelming…

Roman ruins at Alcazaba, Malaga Spain

Roman theater found under the castle ruins. Civilization on top of civilization!

Farther up the hill we entered the first part: the Alcazaba, the castle first built by the Moors and added onto my Isabella and Ferdinand when they finally managed to conquer Malaga in a massive siege. We poked through rooms and passages, popping through the keyhole doorways into little courtyards with gardens and fountains. Once we finally had our fill, we headed to the Castillo de Gibralfaro, the fortress up the hill. A trail led us along the wall, up and up to the top of the cliff.

Not accounting for the Mediterranean weather, I had dressed in a cute but fairly heavy sweater, thinking I could wear this and not have to haul around a coat, too. We were barely a fourth of a way up the steep path when I started sweating. By the time we reached a loookout over the city, I was dripping sweat, cursing my sweater and J the mountain goat, and ready to sell my soul for a damn hair tie. Determined to overcome, I pushed on, trying to focus on the cool wall and the flowers growing along the path. The view of Gibralfaro finally rising just ahead of me nearly made me weep, but I had already sweat out all moisture reserves in my body.

hiking to Castillo de Gibralfaro, Malaga Spain

Practically panting…ugh, stupid sweater

We climbed the walls and I had trouble remembering what time period we were in. There were far fewer people up here and we roamed and played in the towers and stairs and gardens in the middle. But the walls were the best, giving views and fueling my imagination. I’m reading “Outlander” and can’t help but imagine myself in Claire’s shoes, transported to 15th century Spain instead of 18th century Scotland…..

Castillo de Gibralfaro, Malaga Spain

Defending the castle!!

After a quick tour of the little military museum, we strolled back down the formidable hill to the crowded, noisy 21st century below. We found a table at El Pimpi, a much-talked-about restaurant in the plaza next to the Alcazaba. Enjoying the cooling evening air, we ordered wine and some amazing fish dish to prolong our visit. We were entering the time period when the Spanish seem to come out for drinks and maybe tapas. It’s too early for dinner but perfect for socializing. Joining in, we decided to do a tapas hop. First stop: Central Beers, home to 15 taps and over 150 bottled choices. A big screen on the wall showed the choices, and we each picked a beer. I love how most places have a small glass, like a mini beer, so I didn’t have to drink a whole pint of one kind. We were soon chatting happily with a really nice Swedish man sitting next to us.

dinner at El Pimpi, Malaga Spain

Dining in the shadow of the Alcazaba. How cool would it be to live here?!

We stopped in a little place called Nacalu next, sitting under the awning on the sidewalk. More delicious wine and incredible tapas. I only remember one: the most delicious calamari I’ve ever had! It took all my will power not to grab the plate and stuff it all in my mouth but to enjoy my half and let J have his half. A large family sitting at the table in front of us kept me vastly entertained, and their little mop of a dog was adorable.

Back to the streets once more, we made a final stop at a little place called Taberna el Mentidero. We sat inside among really cool matador decor and J ordered a traditional dish we had been looking for: espetos de sardines. Six little sardines on a plate, whole and salty. The old, bent waiter motioned how to eat them: nibble nibble one side, flip, nibble nibble the other side. They reminded me of eating chicken wings…little bits of meat, watch for bones. I was skeptical but they were pretty good. After a bath with the wet wipes, we finally decided we were full and headed back for our lofty bed.

The next morning we packed to go. With so much walking around, I feel acquainted with the streets and shops right around our little temporary home. I say a silent farewell as we walk away, to the super stinky alley and the little gelato shop, the restaurant with wine barrels as tables and the shop with beautiful gowns in the window. Dragging our suitcases behind us, we popped into a little cafe for tea, coffee, and a croissant…and wifi. I couldn’t help but watch this cute little couple near us. The man held the woman’s held and stroked the back of it with his thumb the whole time they were deep in conversation. It was just the sweetest. Then we grabbed our stuff, hailed a cab, and off to the bus station we went!!!

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One response

5 04 2016
George Denney

Kalista, you are such a talented writer, I almost feel like I have been there!!

Give it to me straight -

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